fingers

The Neglected Digit

Think about your hands for a moment - which parts of them do you feel are most critical to your recorder playing? My bet is you mostly consider your fingers and left thumb - we naturally see these as doing most of the heavy lifting. But what about the digit which literally does the heavy lifting - your right thumb? We often take this one for granted - after all, it doesn’t have a hole to cover, so it somehow seems less important, doesn’t it? This message from Richard, one of my Score Lines subscribers, got me thinking, and made me realise our most neglected digit deserves a blog post of its own! 

“Much has been written about technique but strangely little is mentioned about the right thumb.  Indeed, I never thought about it other than to recognise that it supports the instrument. I was experiencing some difficulties with bottom F - my hand and fingers are not as nimble/flexible as they were - and I began to think about whether altering the position of my right thumb was an issue. Was it optimally positioned - indeed what do experts advise?  I found nothing!”

A supporting and enabling role

In common with most woodwind instruments, the right thumb’s role in recorder playing is mostly a matter of support - only on the bassoon does it also have to cover a hole or press keys. This digit’s job is a supporting and enabling one - namely holding our instrument up and ensuring our other thumb and fingers can do their tasks easily and efficiently.

There are two main considerations for your right thumb - using it effectively to support the instrument and the way its position affects your overall hand shape. Both of these have an impact on the ease and level of success with which you play. Placing your thumb in the wrong place on the back of the recorder can have a detrimental effect on your playing, and sometimes result in discomfort too. 

Fundamentally, your right thumb is there to support the recorder, thus enabling your fingers to cover the holes and to move freely at all times.

In search of the perfect hand position 

You may well be familiar with this image, taken from Principles of the Recorder, Flute and Oboe by Jacques Hotteterre le Romain. Only the fingers on the top surface of the recorder are fully visible, but analysing their position tells us a lot about where our thumbs should be as well. 

Look at the shape of the fingers and their position, relative to the recorder. They’re gently curved, adopting the shape they naturally take when at rest, and lie more or less at ninety degrees to the recorder. If you have one nearby, grab a recorder (I suggest a descant or treble) and try to emulate this finger position with your own hands. Now look down at your hands and see where your right thumb ends up. 

If you follow this example to the letter, you may find your right thumb doesn’t even reach the back of the recorder - this is partially dependent on the relative lengths of your thumb and fingers, as well as the size of recorder you’re holding. If this is the case, gently move your thumb over until it finds a natural position on the back of the instrument. It’s a good idea to stand in front of a mirror while doing this, as it allows you to easily see the position of your fingers too. Don’t forget to hold the recorder up to your lips so you can really gauge your natural playing position.

What’s the perfect position for your right thumb?

This varies from person to person, depending on their hand size - after all, we’re all built slightly differently. In general though, the best position is somewhere between the 4th and 5th finger holes. I’ll come back to this later, when we consider how to achieve a consistency of thumb placement.

Hand shape can have a big impact

As you hold your recorder up to play, look down at the shape of your hand. How much space is there between your thumb and first finger? Are they close together, or is there some room between them? Ideally you’re after a rounded space beneath your fingers - imagine being able to pop a small satsuma or tangerine in the palm of your right hand! 

A good hand position

Now look at the position of your right wrist. Try to avoid dropping your wrist towards your body. Doing so reduces the space between thumb and fingers, creating tension across your knuckles. Tension is never a good thing! Aim for a natural, gentle, convex curve in your wrists which is a continuation of the shape of your fingers. If you’re not sure whether you’ve found the right position, try intentionally dropping your wrist and see how it feels. You’ll immediately notice it’s harder to cover the finger holes and your knuckles will feel more tense and restricted. 

When the right wrist drops it negatively impacts the position of the fingers too

How bendy are you?

We all naturally have differing levels of flexibility in our bodies. Having a good range of movement in our joints is generally a positive thing, but for those who are very bendy, or even have hypermobility, it can create difficulties. Hold your right hand in front of you, as in the picture below, as though giving someone a ‘thumbs up’. How far does the tip of your thumb curve back on itself? For most people it will bend a little, but for those who are double jointed or hypermobile it can comfortably stretch almost as far as ninety degrees - this is sometimes known as a ‘hitchhikers' thumb’, as you can see below.

For recorder playing this can result in a less than ideal position for either hand. For the right hand, it can reduce the space between thumb and fingers when holding a recorder, resulting in tension across the knuckles as I’ve described above. If you recognise this description in your own hands, try bending the top joint of your thumb a little to open up this space, rather than just allowing it to flop into its totally relaxed, overextended position. This may help, if you can get used to a change of position, but I have another solution which I’ll talk about below.

Make gravity your friend

Its not uncommon to feel the recorder is in danger of slipping though your hands when playing. If this occurs, players sometimes end up resting one of their fingers between the holes (often the right hand first finger) for extra support and control. This is far from ideal, as those fingers should really be concerned merely with covering the holes!

If this description seems familiar, try lifting your recorder up a touch more, moving it slightly closer towards a horizontal position than a vertical one. Doing so changes the instrument’s centre of balance, allowing gravity to gently push its weight down onto your right thumb. Even a small change here can have a big effect, making it feel that the recorder is less likely to slip from your hands.

Compromise is sometimes necessary

Just as the length of your thumb can affect how close you get to the ‘perfect’ hand position, the size of recorder you’re playing also has an impact.

For most people, smaller recorders, such as descant and treble, can be played with little difficulty, but when it comes to the larger instruments compromises sometimes need to be made in order to cover the finger holes. It’s not unusual to have to drop the right wrist a little in order to play the tenor recorder, simply because the distance between the finger holes is greater. However, when we reach the bass, this stretch required is often diminished again because of the addition of keys to cover certain holes.

To play my straight tenor recorder I have to drop my right wrist a little, but I have fairly long fingers so I can still cover the fingerholes without difficulty.

The Knick - a practical trade off

In recent decades Knick instruments have become much more commonplace - especially tenor and bass recorders. The bend in the head joint brings the body of the recorder closer to your own body, reducing the strain on the arms and making it easier to reach the finger holes. In general this is a positive thing, but there’s a trade off as it also change the instrument’s centre of gravity. I’ll talk about instrument supports in a moment - for knick instruments they’re particularly critical.

Having the knick shifts this middle joint into a more vertical position. This can make it feel as though the instrument is going to slide down through your hands - after all, the very nature of gravity pulls things downwards. I would argue that all knick instruments (be it a tenor or bass) really need a thumb rest. Many have one installed when purchased, but if yours doesn’t I would have one fitted as soon as possible.

New innovations 

In recent years Kunath recorders, who make the square Paetzold instruments, have been innovating, allowing those with small hands to try sizes of recorder which might otherwise have been impossible to play. At the more expensive end of the scale there’s the Paetzold knick tenor, which has keys to cover all the finger holes. The end of the recorder rests on the seat between one’s legs, taking away all worries about supporting the instrument.

More recently, they’ve come up with a more modestly priced solution - the Sigo tenor. This has a folded internal bore (following the principle of the renaissance rackett), resulting in a tenor where the stretch between holes for the fingers is somewhere between that of a descant and treble. I know many players for whom this has been a real game changer, allowing them to play the tenor comfortably for the first time. A bass Sigo is also in the works, so it’ll be interesting to see if that is similarly impactful. 

With both the Sigo and the Paetzold knick tenor, the right hand thumb position becomes much less critical as your seat provides all the support, allowing you to focus entirely on the fingers. Their tone and response may not be to everyone’s taste, but it’s been wonderful to see so many people exploring the mellow tones of the tenor without the discomfort faced by those with small hands.

Does your thumb need some help?

On larger recorders it’s not unusual for a thumb rest to be added to help you support the instrument, but don’t dismiss the idea of some assistance on smaller recorders if you need it. If a thumb support of some type makes it more comfortable and easier to play, there’s absolutely no reason why you shouldn’t use one.

Let’s look at the possibilities for recorder supports…

Traditional thumb rests

This is perhaps the most obvious way to help support your recorder, and they come in many different forms. Some instruments (basses for instance) come with a thumb rest pre-installed, and these sometimes include a screw mechanism to allow for adjustment. As we’ve already noted, hands come in many different sizes and in varying proportions, so one size doesn’t necessarily fit all. 

For smaller recorders, thumb rests come in many different styles and materials. If you’ve never used a thumb rest and want to see if it’s the answer for you, the simplest solution can be a piece of BluTack or Plasticine before committing yourself to something more permanent. You only need a small piece, and it can be shaped and re-shaped to suit your needs. I would start by placing it on the back of the recorder, somewhere between the holes 4 and 5. If this allows you to comfortably cover the holes that’s great. If not, try moving it up or down a little until you find the perfect spot. 

If this solution works, you might wish to go for something a little more aesthetically pleasing and/or permanent. A great, cost effective solution is a clip on plastic thumb rest, like those for descant, treble and tenor, made by recorder manufacturer Aulos. They only cost a couple of pounds and can be easily slid on and off the recorder. They blend in perfectly with plastic recorders, but take care when attaching them to wooden instruments to avoid scratching the surface of the wood. 

Photo from Early Music Shop

I’ve also seen recorder players who fashion a personalised thumb rest from modelling clay, such as Sugru. This solution gives you the chance to mould it to the perfect shape before it cures permanently. Sugru will attach to wood if you put it in place before the material has cured, but be aware that it may leave a mark if you later remove it. But there’s nothing to stop you moulding a thumb rest from this material and then attach it with double sided adhesive tape or a suitable type of glue once it’s set into its final shape. Sugru comes in many different colours, so this solution may allow you to find a shade which closely matches the wood of your recorder.

If you want a more permanent solution, you can buy wooden or metal thumb rests which can be glued or even screwed to the instrument. If you consider attaching one permanently, I would recommend consulting an experienced woodwind repairer for advice on the best type of attachment to use, lest you do irreparable damage to your favourite instrument! 

Where to place your thumb rest

The most efficient and comfortable position for a thumb rest will vary, depending on the relative length of your thumb and fingers. For most people though, a good starting point is around halfway between the fourth and fifth finger holes. I would begin by experimenting with a temporary rest, shifting it up and down a small amount until you find the right spot for you. Bear in mind that the perfect position may vary between the different sizes of recorder.

Each time you move your temporary thumb rest, really take some time to explore how each change of position feels. Does moving it up or down a little help you cover the finger holes more easily? Moving it too low down can create unnecessary tension in the bottom joint of your thumb, as well as restricting the movement of your fingers, so take your time and really analyse what feels most comfortable.

Thumb rests for the terminally indecisive

Most people find a single position for their thumb rest which allows them to support the instrument and cover the finger holes effectively. However, it can take a little while to find the perfect spot. For those who can’t quite make up their mind I have a few practical solutions…

I’ve already mentioned the possibilities if Blutak/plasticene above, but another option is a short length of ribbon or cord. Many recorders have decorative mouldings on the foot joint and you can anchor the ribbon around these. You then create a loop of ribbon, into which you tuck your right thumb. It can be a little fiddly to install, but once you’ve got the length right it’s a lightweight and flexible way of supporting your instrument without having to glue anything in place.

A friend of mine recently shared a different solution she’s alighted upon. Attaching a small piece of fine grade sandpaper to the back of your recorder using double-sided adhesive tape, with the rough side facing your thumb, it creates a small amount of friction to help hold the instrument against the skin. This solution doesn’t provide any active support, but can offer a little more reassurance than the natural shiny surface of a recorder. When the sandpaper loses its roughness it can easily be replaced with a fresh piece. Incidentally, the curved corners to the sandpaper in the image below make it less prone to peeling away. As you can see here, my friend Rose combines this with a home made thumb rest made of Sugru, creating a positive sense of security when playing.

Is it okay to use a thumb rest on smaller recorders?

Absolutely, it is!

I’ve met players over the years who don’t use a thumb rest as a matter of pride - somehow they feel using one would be tantamount to admitting they’re less of a player. I disagree with this and take a pragmatic approach. If a thumb rest makes playing more comfortable and allows you to cover the finger holes with ease, you are within your rights to do so on any size of recorder.

When I taught the recorder to young children I would habitually provide them with a clip on thumb rest (like the Aulos one pictured above), even on a descant recorder, and especially if they had small hands. Doing so meant they consistently put their right thumb in the correct position from the start and allowed them to have a good sense of stability and control as they played. With a thumb rest in place from day one, it also meant they were less likely to get into the bad habit of resting their fingers on the instrument between the finger holes. As we all know from painful experience, it’s always better to create good habits from the start than to have to unlearn bad habits later. As my pupils grew they sometimes removed the thumb rest later, but by that stage they had good habits in place and were able to hold the recorder with confidence.

Yes, I realise that most of my Score Lines readers won’t be children, but there’s absolutely no reason why you shouldn’t use a thumb rest if it helps you at any age!

Other methods of support

Larger recorders, such a tenors and basses may require more support than just a thumb rest, to compensate for their additional weight. Most bass recorders come with a sling (which can be worn around the neck or across the body), but there’s another possible solution - a spike. This attaches to the bottom of the instrument, transferring all the weight into the ground. Some bass recorders are now supplied from the maker with a screw-in spike (the Kung Superio bass comes to mind), but detachable ones (attached with a ring of Velcro) are available for any variety of bass recorder. I have an aluminium one, made by Anthony Barrett (pictured below), but wooden ones are also available.

The buttress finger

I’ve already mentioned the dangers of resting the right hand first finger against the recorder for additional support. This particular finger is needed for many notes and doing this can really slow down your playing. However, the concept of using a ‘buttress finger’ is a technique many players use. Compared to the other right hand fingers, the little finger spends much more time in the air and is only occasionally required to cover a finger hole. This means it can be used as an additional point of support. By resting it on the decorative beading at the top of the footjoint, it works in tandem with the right thumb to create a greater sense of balance and security.

I sometimes do this myself, although there are certain pieces of music (I first discovered this while learning the Vivaldi Concerto in C minor) where it’s less convenient as I need the little finger more often than usual to shade the lowest hole to tune certain notes. This may not be a problem in the repertoire you play though, so I would definitely give it a try and see if it helps you.

Challenges for the ‘mature’ recorder player

As I’ve already mentioned, achieving the ideal hand position can be tricky for those with overly bendy hands. But similar issues can often afflict all of us as we age. Getting older brings many benefits - greater knowledge, experience, confidence - but sadly for many it can also bring arthritis and decreased flexibility. When this strikes the hands it can result in deformed joints, sometimes making it harder to cover the finger holes cleanly. 

If this problem makes it difficult to cover the lowest holes, one solution is to buy a recorder with keys, or to have additional keys installed on existing instruments. But if arthritis affects the bottom joint of your right thumb this doesn’t necessarily solve the problem entirely. Many years ago one of my adult pupils encountered exactly this problem and her solution was to create a built up thumb rest from layers of cork. Moving the right thumb away from the recorder opened up the space within the palm of the hand, allowing her to reach the fingerholes more comfortably. Ultimately she commissioned someone to make a wooden thumb rest of the right height for each of her recorders, which served the same purpose and looked very elegant. 

More recently, another friend of mine has faced the same problem and has come up with an equally ingenious solution. A simple polystyrene ball, purchased from a craft shop, can be easily carved out to fit onto the back of the recorder, with a small scoop excavated from the opposite side for the thumb to rest beneath. Once shaped to the right proportions it can be attached with double sided tape or even an elastic band. 

If arthritis means you’re struggling to reach the lowest finger holes, I suggest you explore this solution. These balls can be bought inexpensively, in many different sizes, and with a little trial and error you’ll find the perfect size to give your right thumb the appropriate degree of ‘lift’. For my friend, this has enabled her to keep playing the recorder as the arthritis in her thumb has progressed and she’s now created appropriately sized rests for all her recorders.

Many thanks to Jan for allowing me to take and share some photos of her thumb rests (and hands) - I’m sure these explain the concept better than my words could ever do! If this is a problem you’re facing I hope it may inspire you to explore this option and hopefully keep playing for many more years.

How’s your right thumb doing?

Have my words made you look at this neglected digit in a new light? Have you spotted something in your own hand position which would benefit from some care and attention? None of this is rocket science, but sometimes a small adjustment can make a real difference to our playing. I’d love to hear if this helped you and perhaps triggered you to make some changes to your technique. A big thank you to Richard, my Score Lines subscriber, whose email inspired this blog post - your words made me think in a new light about my right thumb! As ever, please do leave a comment below if you have questions or feedback - who knows your comment could start my train of thought towards the next Score Lines blog!

Everyday Recorder Keep Fit

How often do you practise your recorder? Don’t worry, I’m not making a judgement about your playing or commitment to the instrument, but I am interested. For some people recorder playing is a skill they diligently practise every day, while for others it may be a fun activity they only do in the company of others. Of course, there’s a sliding scale of possibilities between these two options!

Bending the laws of physics

For many of us, simply finding the time to practise is the biggest problem - modern life makes so many demands on our time that it’s easy to neglect our music making.

I don’t know about you, but I often find myself wishing I could bend the laws of physics, creating the occasional 36 hour long day or 8 day week. Now I think about it, perhaps that isn’t such a great idea… Parkinson’s Law (coined by author Cyril Northcote Parkinson in 1955) dictates that work always expands to fill the time available. No doubt, if I had a 36 hour day at my disposal the boring stuff would still squeeze out the time for music making!

Of course, practice doesn’t need to occupy many hours every day – you can make gains in a short time if you know how. When I studied at music college I habitually practised for three or four hours each day. But when I emerged into the world of work I swiftly realised this was no longer practical. To compensate I taught myself to practise more efficiently, learning to achieve in 30 minutes what would once have taken an hour or more.

If you’re busy, don’t neglect the basics…

Inevitably we tend to focus on actually playing music - that’s the fun part of playing the recorder. But by neglecting the basics of technique you may compromise the quality of your music making too.

Below you’ll find a three step programme to help you hone your technique - think of it as a daily keep fit workout for your recorder playing. None of these exercises will take more than a few minutes, but if you do them regularly you will notice differences in your playing.

I’ve broken them down into three easy steps, each of which will take five minutes of your time. Now, you’re supposed to spend two minutes, morning and evening cleaning your teeth and I bet you spend those four minutes brushing without giving it a second thought. Just one of these steps takes only a minute longer. If you’re still thinking, “But I haven’t got the time”, just think of it as one of those non-negotiable tasks we all carry out every day without fail.

First things first…

Always have a recorder out and ready to play!

The simple task of assembling your instrument can create inertia, so why not keep an instrument out together and ready to play at all times? An inexpensive plastic recorder won’t take up a lot of space on your table. If it’s there, staring you in the face every time you walk past, you’re much more likely to pick it up and play!

If you have five spare minutes a day…

Let’s begin by thinking about your breathing and tone:

Step one… Spend a minute breathing deeply, really filling your lungs with air. Keep your stomach relaxed so it can expand as you breathe in. Initially, exhale freely, enjoying the benefits of all that oxygen. As I often tell the recorder players I meet, breathing is an excellent thing to do, whether playing the recorder or in every day life!

Next, try hissing as you exhale, gently squeezing your stomach muscles to control the speed of the air. Varying the strength of movement in your stomach muscles, you’ll hear the sound of your hissing change as the breath moves faster and slower.

Step two… Use the rest of your five minutes to play a simple scale slowly. And I mean really slowly – perhaps four steady beats on each note. Breathe as often as you need to - every couple of notes if need be. On every single note really listen critically to your sound.

Do you enjoy your tone? If not, try using faster or slower air (using your stomach muscles, as in step one above) until you can make a full, rich sound on every note.

If you have ten spare minutes a day…

The next step is to make your fingers neater. Practise all the items above, plus the following:

Step one… Break your chosen scale down into groups of five notes and play these groups up and down, slurring every note. Begin slowly, playing the notes as whole beats at a speed of crotchet=72. Really focus on the quality of your finger changes – make small, quick movements. Playing in front of a mirror is handy to check you’re not lifting your fingers too far from the instrument.

Step two… When you need to move several fingers together, use a mirror to check they’re moving at exactly the same time. You may need to be more proactive with the fingers you lift as these don’t have gravity to help them!

If you have fifteen minutes a day…

You’re making progress on your tone and fingers now, so let’s build up some speed too. Practise all the exercises above, plus these:

Step one… Using the same five note scale patterns you practised in the last step, gradually increase their speed. Continue slurring all the notes. Really listen to the notes (close your eyes – it’ll make you listen more carefully!) and ask yourself if they’re completely smooth and even. If your fingers begin to rush away, use a metronome to help you control the speed.

Step two… Now put your five note patterns back together into a complete scale and repeat the process. This’ll demand more concentration and will help you take stock of your progress.

Don’t forget to keep listening to your tone - aim to maintain the beautiful sound you honed in step one at the same time!

Make yourself a promise…

My challenge to you is to practise these exercises every day for a whole month. Now much as I would love to be able to check in with you all on your progress, that would require me to have days which last at least 96 hours! Instead, make a promise to yourself that you’ll stick with it.

If you can make these simple exercises part of your every day routine, you will see results in a month’s time. If you don’t believe me, why not record your first session? The voice memo app on any smartphone is all you need, or a cassette recorder for those who prefer more retro technology! After a month, record yourself again and listen back to both for comparison.

I’d love to hear how you get on with this. Why not share your experiences in the comments below? Or perhaps you already have your own daily recorder ‘keep fit’ routine - if you do I’d love to hear more!

The technique zone - Finger training

Hotteterre’s iconic image of a recorder player’s hands from his treatise, Principes de la flute traversiere, de la Flute a Bec, et du Haut-bois, Op.1

When you consider the myriad of things we concentrate on while playing the recorder it’s a miracle we make music at all, isn’t it? You’ve got breathing, tone production, articulation and fingering to consider and that’s without even making any decisions about the finer musical details.

Multitasking is a skill all humans struggle with - our brains just aren’t designed for focusing on multiple tasks at once. The way we overcome this in music is to practise certain skills to the point where they become instinctive and habitual. Once this happens, that habitual element of playing can continue while our brain focuses more heavily on other things. I see the challenges of multitasking all the time in the musicians I work with. A pupil can be playing with a gorgeous, rounded tone, but when faced with a sudden flurry of fast notes, or a passage in a tricky key, their tone suddenly suffers because they’re now busy thinking about their fingers.

This short video clearly explains the phenomenon of how we manage (or fail to manage!) multitasking.

To develop good technique to the point where it becomes habitual it’s important to separate out the various elements, focusing on just one skill for a period. In previous posts I’ve talked about breathing, tone production and legato playing, so today we’re going to focus on moving our fingers well.

Be a tortoise rather than a hare

My aim today is to get you thinking about the quality of your finger movements rather than the speed of them. You remember the old adage, “Don’t run before you can walk” - that applies to recorder playing too!

None of the techniques and exercises I’m going to share here need to be done at speed immediately - that can come later. Instead, take your time, focusing on efficiency rather than whizziness. In a further blog post we’ll discuss how to acquire speedy fingers - to do that as well today would almost certainly require too much multitasking!

If you practise the techniques below and turn them into good habits you’ll be in a much stronger place to develop speed in the future.

How do you hold your recorder?

I often see people doing battle with their recorders, holding them in curious ways - this inevitably has a detrimental effect on finger efficiency. Let’s go back to basics for a moment - I explain exactly where to begin in this short video:

Comfort with larger recorders

A welcome innovation over the last twenty to thirty years has been an increase in the number of knick recorders available. These are larger instruments (tenor downwards) which incorporate a bend in the headjoint, often some additional keywork. Such modifications are so helpful as they bring the body of the recorder closer to the player, reducing the stretch required for the fingers and arms. Straight tenor recorders often provide the greatest challenge for those with smaller hands. I know many players who now enjoy playing the tenor recorder because a knick and some extra keys have brought the fingerholes into comfortable reach for them.

Knick instruments have one drawback though - the bend in the headjoint changes the angle of the recorder’s centre joint. As I explained in my video, a straight recorder sits upon your right thumb in an almost horizontal position. This allows gravity to help pin the recorder against your thumb, adding stability. With a knick instrument, the centre joint takes an almost vertical position, so gravity then becomes a negative force, trying to pull your recorder to the ground! There are several possible solutions here, the simplest of which is to use a thumb rest. Tucking your thumb beneath a thumb rest gives the recorder a point of balance and the force of gravity holds it there. But with heavy recorders, or for those with arthritic thumbs, this can of be painful so there are other solutions you can try.

Attaching a sling or neck strap to the back of your recorder allows you to hang the weight of the instrument from your neck or shoulders, perhaps in combination with a thumbrest. If this isn’t comfortable, a third option is available for the bass recorder - to rest the bottom of the instrument somewhere. I often do this by crossing my ankles, resting the bottom of the recorder between my calves. If this isn’t comfortable you can also buy adjustable spikes which allow you to rest the instrument on the floor. I often use the latter solution with my bass and I love the way it takes all the strain away from my fingers.

Ultimately, if your body is comfortable while playing, this frees up your fingers to move efficiently, making your playing more fluent. It’s definitely worth spending some time finding the right solution for you.

The human hand - a flawed design

Evolution is an amazing thing, slowly making adjustments and improvements to the design of our bodies over many, many generations. However, from a musician’s perspective, there are still a few things which could be improved. One of these is the design of our hands.

It’s a common misconception that our fingers are controlled by muscles within our hands. In reality, the movement of our fingers is created by the muscles in our forearms. These muscles connect to tendons, which run through our wrists and hands into our fingers. As the forearm muscles flex they pull on the tendons, creating the finger movements needed to play the recorder.

It’s within these tendons you find a small flaw. A single tendon runs through each finger and into your wrist. However, the tendons from your third and fourth fingers fuse together in the centre of your hand before continuing as one single tendon into your wrist. The fact that these two fingers share a tendon means they work better as a team than they do individually. This is why your third and fourth fingers don’t work as independently as the others. This is particularly critical when we play forked fingerings, such as E flat on the treble recorder or B flat on the descant. These notes require the third and fourth fingers to work independently of each other – something they don’t do easily.

I’d love to think that if enough of us continue playing musical instruments of any type, eventually evolution will sort this design flaw out. Hopefully in a couple of million years time recorder players won’t face the same difficulties as we do with forked fingerings!

Keep reading and I have some exercises later which will help you make these weaker fingers work more efficiently.

Good vibrations

Do you have a recorder close by? If so, pick it up now and play a few notes. Focus on the sensations you feel through your fingers.

Do you feel gentle vibrations through the pads of your fingers? Or is your sole sensation that of the wood or plastic beneath your fingertips? This exercise will help you understand whether you’re covering the holes in the right way. Use the minimum amount of pressure and you can feel the vibration of the air column beneath your fingers. If you can’t feel this vibration you’re pressing your fingers down with too much force, and working harder than you need to. Being aware of this will help you to better understand whether you are working your fingers efficiently.

Remember too that you should always cover the holes with the pads of your finger, not the tips. This gives you maximum sensitivity and the best chance of sealing them effectively.

Active versus passive

An efficient finger technique is vital if you ever wish to play at speed. You should aim to use just enough effort to open and close the finger holes. Use too light a touch can result in air leaks, while pressing too hard with your fingers expends more energy than necessary.

A useful way to achieve the perfect balance of finger pressure is to think in terms of active and passive movements. Bringing your fingers down to cover the holes uses gravity as an assistant and is a passive movement. In contrast, when lifting fingers up, you’re working against gravity so this movement has to be an active one. Play a few notes on your recorder, perhaps a short scale, and really focus on these two types of movement. Harnessing, the power of gravity will help you cover the finger holes with ease, while the greatest amount of energy is always used when lifting the fingers.

Don’t work too hard!

When it comes to finger movements I always tell my pupils to be as lazy as they can get away with. Of course, I don’t mean taking a slapdash, “that’ll do“ sort of attitude. Instead, think in terms of expending the minimum energy necessary to get the most efficient result.

Are you a recorder player whose fingers are a model of efficiency and neatness? Or maybe you’re someone whose digits flap like flags in the wind?! It’s simple common sense that if you keep your fingers close to the recorder they’ll travel more quickly than if you lift them high. However, common sense doesn’t necessarily have a huge amount to do with what we actually do with our fingers!

If you’re  a finger flapper, spend some time playing a simple piece of music, where you have the spare mental capacity to be able to focus on your finger movements, without being distracted by other elements of technique. Playing in front of a mirror can be really helpful here, because it’s often easier to see which fingers are moving too much when viewed from the perspective of an another person.

Another mental image I suggest to my students is to imagine a mini electric fence placed horizontally two or three centimetres above your fingers. If you’re familiar with Star Trek, I’m thinking of a miniaturised version of the electronic force fields they use to close off parts of the Starship Enterprise. With this imaginary force field in place, think what would happen if you lifted your fingers too high and they came into contact with it. A quick zap of electricity would certainly focus the mind, deterring you from lifting your fingers further than they need to travel - not that I’m suggesting you should actually electrify your recorder!

If you’d like to see efficient fingering in action I recommend watching this video of a young Frans Bruggen performing the Vivaldi Concerto in C, RV441. He looks so utterly relaxed and his fingers lift just enough to clear the holes, but no more. For those of who don’t speak Dutch, the music begins at around two minutes.

Snappy mover

If you’re playing a slow piece of music, do you think your fingers should move quickly or slowly?

I often pose this question to students and you’d be surprised how many people get the answer wrong. Your fingers do, of course, need to move quickly and snappily, regardless of the tempo of the music. When you’re playing a slow, singing line the notes change at a leisurely pace and the spaces between the notes are minimised to create that legato effect. Move your fingers too slowly and the transitions become blurred and glissando-like. I often compare this to the voices of The Clangers in the 1970s TV cartoon! To avoid this always move your fingers quickly and efficiently to create a singing melody with crisp transitions between notes.

Putting everything into practice

Having considered basic principles, it’s now time to put this into practice.

As I mentioned earlier, trying to do too many things at once will almost certainly end in failure. Your best bet is to choose something simple, allowing you to focus entirely on your finger movements. Perhaps the simplest exercise is a five note scale like the ones shown below - one for the fingers on the left hand, one for the right.

Begin very slowly, but make sure every single finger movement is quick, neat and as minimalist as possible. Remember, the further, your fingers move away from the recorder, the longer they take to come back down again. The time saved by making small movements is important whether you’re playing a slow melody or virtuosic concerto. Even better, play these passages with every note slurred. Slurring leaves nowhere for your fingers to hide – every little inconsistencies in their movement will be audible. Slurring also exposes unevenness in tone and rhythm so don’t forget to listen out for those too!

As you begin to improve the quality of your finger movements, gradually increase the speed of these short exercises. As the tempo builds, take care not to slip back into bad habits, with fingers flapping wildly.

Training badly behaved fingers

When we looked at the anatomy of our hands earlier, I mentioned how the connected finger tendons make forked fingerings harder to play neatly. This is because such notes require movement of two or more fingers together, frequently including one of your weaker fingers. The ultimate challenge comes when a note change requires you to move fingers up and down simultaneously, using digits on both hands.

The exercise below demands all these things between notes 2, 3 and 4. Try playing it now (ideally slurred) and listen to the neatness (or not!) of your finger movements.

Now play the same exercise while standing in front of a mirror. Really study the way your fingers are moving.

If you hear blips between notes this is because one or more fingers are moving out of sync with the others. Watching this process in a mirror (seeing them from the perspective of your recorder teacher, for instance) makes it much easier to spot which finger is slower than the others. If you find it hard to spot the badly behaved finger, concentrate on any which are moving upwards. Remember, lifting a finger requires you to work against gravity, requiring fractionally more effort. You’ll almost certainly find misbehaving digit is a lifted finger, moving just a fraction slower than the others.

Having located the recalcitrant digit, next time, really focus on that particular finger, trying to make it work just a little bit harder than the others. Over time you’ll probably noticed a pattern. Third fingers are the most common offenders, simply because they’re weaker as a result of the shared tendon. There’s nothing you can do to change the way your hand is built, but by concentrating on the way your fingers move, you can gradually encourage them to move more efficiently.

Once you can do this neatly while playing slowly, then begin to increase the speed, bit by bit, always ensuring your finger movements are neat and precise before moving the tempo up another notch.

Do you have your own tips for dealing with lazy fingers?

I’m sure there will be things I’ve mentioned today which chime with you. We’ve all wrestled with difficult passages and berated our fingers for creating all sorts of blips and imperfections. If you can recognise these bad habits while practising, you’re in a good position to gradually improve upon them. Maybe you have your own exercises and techniques for improving finger control? If you do, why not leave a comment below and share some of them with us – there’s always room to learn from each other.

The tips and exercises I’ve shared today are ones that work for me, but we all tackle things in our own unique way. I’d love to hear some of your tips and tricks!